11Sep
Boardwalk opens at Steamer Wharf... let's meet the chef!by Fiona Garlick
Executive Chef Chris Lees (centre) with his team at Boardwalk.
After much anticipation and refurbishing behind closed doors, a brand new restaurant offering has opened its doors at Steamer Wharf. Boardwalk, situated above the ever popular Pier Restaurant on Queenstown’s prime waterfront, has windows and petite balconettes that look out directly onto Lake Wakatipu and the wharf where the iconic steamship TSS Earnslaw docks.
I thought it was about time I checked it out and, entering through the Boardwalk bar, I find a space that is light and airy and maximises the terrific views. Verging on the nautical with navy blue and brass in the logo and porthole style signage this place feels like Cape Cod meets Waiheke Island.
I am here to meet Chris Lees Executive Chef of the Queenstown restaurant group that includes Boardwalk, Pier, The London and the long standing Brazz Steakhouse and Bar. Canadian born Chris has been in this role for six months, but first came to Queenstown to snowboard in his early twenties and stayed for 2 ½ years living the dream.
Having worked his way up through the kitchen “as all chefs should”, Chris spent his apprenticeship in Canadian prestige golf courses which set his career path in fine dining. He has worked in some beautiful parts of the world; in England, Australia, Sweden and most recently coming from the Bahamas.
The predecessor to Boardwalk and its namesake once famously hosted Bill Clinton so I ask Chris who he would most like to cook for? I’m half expecting Royalty or a celebrity name, but his answer is quite humbling. “I’d love to cook for my Head chef and mentor James Ashton and his wife Anoush. He’s currently back in the UK right now but for sure would love to get him out here.”
For someone who spent so much time in the world of fine dining Chris dislikes the term. He is far more comfortable with the term’s delicious or focused food.
I am impressed by the menu, or should I say menus? Whilst the main menu covers all the bases with an interesting contemporary flair (my pick is the hen breast stuffed with chestnuts, burnt butter & sage potato gnocchi, sultanas and pickled grapes), there is also an extensive grill selection and a vegan/vegetarian menu with some pretty delicious sounding options. But what catches my eye is the menu specifically for oysters and caviar (choices of Russian, French and New Zealand) and I can’t help imagining myself in the light washed atrium enjoying the Sturia caviar with a glass of Dom Perignon.
Awaking from my reverie I ask Chris what he would recommend and he is quick to say the Market Fish. Today it happens to be King Fish flown in from Northland but tomorrow it could just as likely be something from the icy waters of Stewart island. He is well connected and apparently these days it’s all about daily texting from the suppliers countrywide. What’s freshest and what’s available is what counts to this young and enthusiastic chef.
The overall effect of Boardwalk is one of casual opulence and although it lends itself to a special occasion, the comfy couches, the tremendous views and different seating options from bar through to restaurant means you could easily come here for a romantic date, an after work gathering, an aprés ski cocktail or a late night whisky.